Understitching

Sheri Deaton

39 Understitching

Sheri Deaton

Understitching

Understitching is often an overlooked and underutilized apparel production technique. Learning how to understitch will help keep facing and linings neatly inside of garments and will create a finished look for home furnishings.

Understitching Understandings

The purpose of understitching is to keep the facing from rolling toward the outside of the garment. Understitching is a row of stitches that are sewn close to the edge of the facing for this purpose. This is an essential skill to master when making a blouse, dress, or jacket to ensure the neckline is smooth and professionally executed.

TIP: Encourage students to sew slowly, paying careful attention to the seam line when accomplishing this skill. It is always best to not “drive distracted” and that is especially true when implementing this finishing touch (Deaton, 2021).

Your Understitch

You can implement an effective understitch using the following steps. For additional resources to enhance your learning experiences, check out the resources found at the end of the chapter to assist you with creating this stitch.

Place the right sides of the fabric together and sew the two pieces together using the pattern’s suggested seam allowance.
If sewing a curved edge, clip or notch the curves as needed. Press the seam allowance toward the facing or lining.
From the good side of the fabric, stitch close to the seam line, approximately ⅛” or ¼” away from the original seam.

TIP: If accessible, consider using an edge stitch foot to assist with this process. Check out this article from the Seasoned HomeMaker on how to use the edge stitch foot.

Press the facing toward the inside of the garment. You’re done!

Hemming it Up

Understitching can seem a daunting task due to the precise sewing requirement needed to perfectly execute this finishing touch. Using a thread that is a similar color to the fabric is a strategy used by many to hide the understitched seam. If you desire to see this seam, consider using a contrasting color or one that will pop against the fabric.

Practice makes it permanent. Practice makes progress. Sew slowly and practice this underutilized but important skill to create a smooth neckline in your next garment.