Flat Felled Seam

Sheri Deaton

26 Flat Felled Seam

Sheri Deaton

Flat Felled Seam

The flat felled seam is one that is used frequently on shirts, outerwear, and denim. It is extremely durable and sturdy, providing a clean and neat finished look to the product created. Many machines come with a specialty foot that can be used for this seam, however, you can also create this seam with the standard presser foot. Regardless of the presser foot used, patience and practice are critical components as you grow in your abilities to create a flat felled seam (Deaton, 2021).

Photo by Engin Akyurt: https://www.pexels.com/photo/photo-of-blue-denim-textile-1482180/

No Fail Flat Felled Seam

To make a no-fail flat felled seam, consider using the following steps. Additionally, consider utilizing the resources found at the end of the chapter to continue to aid in your understanding of this process.

With the wrong sides of the fabric together, sew a straight seam using the seam allowance indicated on the pattern envelope. Backtacking at both ends to secure the seam.
Press the seam allowances in one direction.
Using fabric shears, trim the upper seam allowance to ¼”.
On the remaining seam allowance, turn it under ¼” and press. Fold this side over the trimmed edge, hiding the seam allowance that was trimmed. Pin in place as needed, ensuring the width of this seam is consistent.
Sew 1/16” along the folded edge of the seam allowance, backtracking at the beginning and the end.

TIP: Always follow the pattern envelope’s directions for the seam allowance. Many patterns use a ⅝” seam allowance, so this is a good place to start for students who are developing their sewing skills.

Hemming it Up

Personally, this seam was perhaps the toughest seam to stitch but was very rewarding to finally accomplish. In this author’s experiences, students will have a love or hate relationship with this seam.

Knowing how to create a flat felled seam is essential if students are going to create apparel or home furnishings that use this seam. The more opportunities students have to practice creating these parallel lines, the more comfortable they will be with their approach and application of this seam.