27 French Seam
Sheri Deaton
French Seam
The French seam creates a durable, self-enclosed seam to ensure that none of the raw edges are visible. This seam is common on sheer fabrics, children’s clothing, pillowcases, and in window treatments. While difficult to create on a curved seam, French seams can be quite easy to sew on straight seams once the technique is mastered (Deaton, 2021).
For a project integrating French seams, check out the Magic Pillowcase in this textbook located in Unit 10: Sample Projects.
TIP: Consider integrating French vocabulary words, music, and even thematic decorations in your classroom as you teach this skill. Integration of the senses will help these skills stick with students in their long-term memory.
French Seam Voila
To make a French seam, consider using the following steps. Additionally, consider utilizing the resources found at the end of the chapter to continue to aid in your understanding of this process.
- Place the wrong sides of the fabric together. This is the opposite of what you do for a simple straight stitch. Pin in place as needed, and stitch a ⅜” seam, backtacking on each end.
- Trim the seam allowance so that it is less than ¼”.
- Press the seam allowance open.
- Fold the right sides together and press again, pressing the seam allowance into the seam. Stitch along the original seamline, ¼” or presser foot distance from the fold, backtacking at the beginning and the end.
- Press the seam to one side.
TIP: The general rule of thumb for creating a French seam is to subtract ¼” from the normal seam allowance. These directions are written from the perspective of a ⅝” seam allowance because many patterns use this as a standard seam allowance. Always read and follow the directions provided by the manufacturer.
Hemming it Up
You do not have to take a trip across the globe to experience the elegance of the French seam. While challenging in the beginning, learning how to create this seam is a worthwhile investment and one that can take your apparel or home furnishings to the next level.
Students who do not have access to a serger may find this technique helpful as they finish seams to prevent raveling as it encloses the raw edges of the seam allowance. Remind students of the skills they are learning as they create these seams and do not forget to use positive reinforcement along the way. Bon travail! (Good work!)
Resources
| Resources | QR Codes |
| Best Way How to Sew a French Seam | TREASURIE | |
| How to sew Flat felled and French Seams | |
| How to Sew a French Seam |
References
Deaton, S. (2021). Teaching Apparel Production. Presentation.