16 Hemming Stitch
Sheri Deaton
Hemming Stitch
Every fashionista needs to learn how to hem a garment. Hems are found in almost every garment and the likelihood of one falling out is high. Knowing how to hem a garment to repair a stitch that has failed is an essential piece of knowledge. Sometimes a repair must be made by hand, which is where hemming hand stitches come into play.
If you are not replacing a hem, but rather creating a hem, you may choose to use a sewing machine to increase the speed at which you can finish the project. Creating a hem using a sewing machine is more clearly outlined in this text in Unit 9: Finishing Touches in the chapter “Hemming Techniques.”
Hemming Basics
The hemming technique you utilize depends on the type of fabric you are using, the amount of hem you are creating or repairing, and the amount of time you have to devote to the project. The following tips are helpful for any hemming stitch you choose to use.
- Thread the needle and make a double knot at the end of the thread.
- Pick up one or two threads of garment fabric close to the hem.
- Push the needle up through the hem, and pull the needle through.
- Move ¼” to the left and repeat the stitch. Keep stitches evenly spaced.
- Finish the seam with a back-tack knot.
TIP: While teaching hand sewing to students, reinforce the importance of consistent stitches that are evenly spaced. Short evenly spaced stitches will create a strong hem which is more likely to retain its strength even through launder and wear. Consider using a working portfolio, where students showcase their first attempt at a skill, while also including their final or perfected attempt.
Hand-Rolled Hem
The hand-rolled hem is a more difficult hem to create, but this technique is needed when working with lightweight or sheer fabrics.
- Thread the needle and make a double knot at the end of the thread.
- With the hem turned over 1/8”, make a stitch ¼” long in the hem.
- Pull the needle through the fabric. Take another stitch, picking up one or two threads on the main fabric. Pull through.
- Move to the left 1/16” and repeat the stitch. After repeating for about 1” the fabric will roll over on itself forming a very small, rolled hem.
- Finish the seam with a back-tack knot.
Hemming it Up
Knowing how to repair a hem in a garment is a helpful skill and one that will likely come in handy throughout your life. Selecting a thread color that compliments the color of the fabric is critical to hide the hemming stitches. The goal behind practicing these skills is to allow you an opportunity to become familiar with and proficient in multiple hemming strategies so that you are empowered to repair or alter any garment.
We will unpack additional ways to sew seams and hem garments in the next few chapters. As you grow through practicing these skills, embrace the opportunities to try new things, modeling the flexible mindset necessary for lifelong learning. Check out the resources at the end of each chapter to extend your learning through tutorials and video demonstrations.
Resources
References
Deaton, S. (2021). Teaching Apparel Production. Presentation.