The overcast stitch (also called the whip stitch) is commonly used to prevent a flat, raw edge from raveling or it can be used to stitch pieces of fabric together in a visible and decorative manner. This stitch is a great choice for a finishing touch on a light-medium-weight fabric. Sergers have the capability to create this stitch, as do many sewing machines. Knowing how to sew this stitch by hand can be helpful for small projects and for situations where you do not have access to a serger or a sewing machine.

Knowing that the stitches will be seen, many choose to use a contrasting color of thread to create a decorative stitch that stands out. Some choose to use the same color of thread to camouflage these stitches. Regardless of the thread choice, consistent and even stitches are necessary to create a sturdy version of this stitch (Deaton, 2021).

 Overcast Stitch Overview

• Thread the needle and make a double knot at the end of the thread.

TIP: Be sure to use a needle that is appropriate for the type of fabric you are sewing.

• Insert the needle through the fabric, about ¼” below the raw edge. Start from the back of the fabric and bring it through the fabric to the front side, ensuring that the knot stays hidden on the underside. Pull the thread through.
• Loop the thread over the fabric edge and move ¼” to the left and repeat the stitch. Be sure to bring the needle through the fabric from the back to the front in the same direction. Pull the thread so that it is tight, but not so tight that the fabric wrinkles or crimps.

TIP: This stitch is historically easier to do if you work from the right to the left. Keep stitches evenly spaced.

• Allow the threads to wrap over the edge of the fabric and pass the needle through again. Always go from the back to the front.
• Repeat this process and finish the seam with a back-tack knot.

TIP: Treasurie created a step-by-step tutorial on using the overcast stitch as a hemming technique. Check out this tutorial if you are interested in using the overcast stitch as a way to hem the edges of a garment.

Hemming it Up

Once you know how to complete an overcast stitch, you can whip it out in a few moments, even on a cloudy or overcast day. The more opportunities you take to practice these skills, the more confident you will feel in your abilities to create this stitch and teach this to others.

Resources

Resources	QR Codes
How to Handsew: The Overcast Stitch | Craftsy
What Is an Overcast Stitch and How Do You Hand Sew It?

References

Deaton, S. (2021). Teaching Apparel Production. Presentation.