The Welt seam is similar to the flat felled seam and is suitable for medium to heavy-weight fabrics. Seam allowances may vary, but this strong and functional seam makes a beautiful decorative finish. While most seams are best designed using a thread color that mirrors the fabric, consider creating this seam with a complementary or contrasting thread to showcase this beautiful seam.

TIP: For a professional and smooth finish, consider pressing the fabric at each stage of creation. Do not neglect this part of the process! A few extra moments at the ironing board will save you tears and a date with Sally the Seam Ripper.

We Welt 

To make a Welt seam, consider using the following steps. Remember, “there is more than one way to Wal-Mart,” (Deaton, 2021), so if these steps do not make sense to you, or you are more of a visual learner, utilize the resources found at the end of the chapter to assist you with this seam.

• Place the right sides of the fabric together. Pin in place as needed, and stitch a ⅝” seam, backtacking on each end.
• Press the stitches to set the seam. Then, press the seam in one direction, ensuring the seam does not pucker.
• Trim the lower seam allowance so that it is less than ¼”.
• Overlock or zigzag the top layer of the seam allowance.
• Press the finished seam allowance flat.
• From the right side, top stitch to enclose the shorter seam allowance. As you sew through three layers (garment layer, finished seam allowance, raw seam allowance) this conceals the raw edge and sets this durable seam in place.
• Press the seam for a finished and professional look.

TIP: Consider adding extra layers of topstitching for a more decorative finish. Contrasting or complementary colors of thread will make this seam pop!

Hemming it Up

The Welt seam is an excellent one for you to add to your skill set if you are looking for a polished way to finish seams without using a serger. This enclosed seam is less likely to fray with everyday use and care.

Students will need patience and opportunities to practice the Welt seam before they feel confident and proficient in implementing this skill. Progress may not come in leaps and bounds, but it will come in one stitch at a time. You’ve got this!

Resources

Resources	QR Codes
How To Sew Welt Seam – Fashion Wanderer
Welt Seam – Easy Tutorial for Strong Seams
Welt Seam Tutorial: 5 Simple Steps – The Creative Curator

References

Deaton, S. (2021). Teaching Apparel Production. Presentation.