8. Pattern Symbols

Symbols on patterns give a variety of information including cutting lines, stitching lines, alternation lines, button/buttonhole placement, fold lines and dots and notches, which help match the pieces during construction.

  • Solid and open dots—indicated placement to match seams or construction details, i.e. pocket placement, pleats, gathers, etc.
A black circle on the left and a hollow circle outlined in black on the right
Solid and open dots.
  • Single notch—indicates the front of a garment piece and is used to match pattern pieces for construction.
A horizontal black line with a centered black triangle pointing upward
Single notch.
  • Double notches—indicate the back of a garment piece.
A horizontal black line with two black triangle pointing upward.
Double notches.
  • Double ended arrow line– used to indicate grain line.
A thin, solid black line extending horizontally across a plain background
Double ended arrow line.
  • Double ended bent arrow line-used to indicate grain and to place pattern piece on the fold of the fabric.
A horizontal black line with downward-pointing arrows at each end, set against a white background.
Double ended bent arrow line.
  • Dotted line indicates stitching line. The distance between the dotted line and solid line is the seam allowance.
Dotted line indicates stitching line
Dotted line indicates stitching line.
  • Solid line on the outer edge of the pattern piece indicates where to cut the pattern piece.
An illustration of a pair of scissors on the left with a straight line extending to the right
Solid line.
  • Double solid lines on a pattern indicate where to lengthen or shorten a pattern piece for alternations.
Double solid lines
Double solid lines.

The crossed circle indicates the apex of fullness. Usually located at the bust line and hip line.

 

The crossed circle
The crossed circle.
  • The X indicates where to place buttons.
The X
The X
  • The line with end bars indicate buttonhole placement and length of buttonhole.
The line with end bars
The line with end bars.

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Introduction to Apparel Production Workbook Copyright © 2023 by Laurie M. Apple is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, except where otherwise noted.

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